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Day 1 El Chalten - El Chalten Let Campamento Poincenot
walking north on the main road RN23 Campamento Madsen. Turn left at the obvious fork, following the path that leads gently uphill through a beautiful forest. After the fantastic view to the north of the Rio de las Vueltas go into the dense forest, and sometimes can be glimpsed on the horizon the peaks. After 2 hours the Fitz Roy appears suddenly, leaving you breathless. The trail continues to the left and down another path (signposted) to the tranquil Laguna Capri in just 15 minutes. This deviation is recommended, water, clear as crystal, reflects the throne mountains in the distance. Some trekkers choose to stay here, but if you want to see the Fitz Roy from the lookout at dawn we recommend the most popular (and crowded) Campamento Poincenot.
Back to the main path and continue to arbustri heath and up the signs for the shortcut (not viable), which, from the west, connecting the Fitz Roy trek with that of Cerro Torre. Our route goes hand in a wide arc toward NO, sometimes through a swamp, following reports a yellow bridge and then left through the woods to the spacious fields Poincenot.
If done as a day trek, through the campsite to enjoy the view of Mount Fitz Roy and then return along the same route. Otherwise, put up your tent and enjoy the view.
Poincenot Camp Day 2 - Laguna de Los Tres (Mount Fitz Roy Lookout) - return from Camp Poincenot
The trek to Laguna de Los Tres offers a spectacular view over Fitz Roy massif, a departure early in the morning and good time will give you a sunrise to remember.
leave Camp Poincenot first crossing a small river then continues west, a bridge suspended above the raging Rio Blanco Rio Blanco to enter the camp, the base camp used by mountaineers. Keep left to follow the path out of the woods on the steep gravel slope. This leads, after a jump to the crest true and the beautiful lookout with views of the Laguna de Los Tres, Fitz Roy's impressive massif, and the desolate steppes that stretch for hundreds of miles to the east. The contrast could not be greater.
From here back to the campsite, to remake the tent and climb back down the path to El Chalten.
They say that dreams do not Risognanze, but when I watched la gioia che rideva negli occhi di Horacio e Luca, mentre distillando l’ultima fatica mi raggiungevano sopra l’orizzonte infinito del Chaltèn-Fitz Roy, ho capito che avevano appena realizzato il sogno della vita, il loro sogno impossibile.
Li guardavo in silenzio, a tratti e a lungo, provando sensazioni ed emozioni più di quante ne possa contenere il cuore, prima che il vento si portasse a spasso anche i miei pensieri.
Come passa il tempo! Dopo vent’anni mi ritrovavo di nuovo lassù, con compagni diversi ma che stavano vivendo la loro prima grande ed irripetibile esperienza, ancora in quell’angolo di cielo terso e amico intento a forgiare vitalità e soddisfazione, percependo quel grandioso ambiente con tutti five senses, as if unaware of those fleeting moments.
Now on the "cumbre", while the wind enveloped us from the morning with its icy winds and intense, constantly trying to infiltrate the evil among the various ups and our insecurities, pausing now and then look further down the red rocks of peak output Supercanaleta and various memories I crowded my mind, from my first time when emerging from the ridge to the other great experiences on the peaks of the face, on those strange towers capped by curious meringue ice.
... Chalten Fitz Roy, the mountain by two names. E 'curious myself thinking what name is more suitable for the colossus of granite that dominates the whole momentum of Patagonia.
Chalten, the mountain that smokes, because of those swirling clouds that wrap the rope fray and often faster across the sky. That is the real name of the original given by the Indians Tehuelche to the majestic mountain, believing he was a volcano. And to think of it was a pity that in the colonial era full of physical extermination, to hate and annihilation of Indian tradition, the Perito Moreno and Francisco came to mind, unfortunately, to rename the magnificent mountains with the name of the master the British ship Beagle.
would be really impressive if this beautiful symbol of stone by the infinite horizons could return to be the oldest of Chalten Tehuelche, but I have left the impression that the name was stolen a second time. These days devoted to global tourism, when you say Chalten springs to mind now that village rose to his feet too quickly for political reasons, no rules or common sense, very bad example of urban anarchy on the border between the pampas and the desolate immense glaciers, lakes and national park.
For three long years but I was a part of the brain always parked on the northeast wall of Chalten, since with Fabio Leoni Rolando Larcher and we had deluded to believe in the benevolence of fate, venturing for about 500 meters along the bottom edges of the sides and then, after six long and painful in portaledge camps, only to hang our hopes, be the inevitable "Fracaso" of "Todo O Nada", driven and invested undeservedly under the avalanche the most brutal storm I can remember. When
in the brain of a man wags his tail too long curiosity is well known that there is no need to give him advice because so many mistakes alone knows. And it happened to me in the meantime to go back two more times without great designs in the head, only attracted by the allure of those large spaces often rendered impenetrable by the dense smoke of a storm, so maybe just because he is still il beneficio del dubbio di non avere proprio del tutto sbagliato.
Sono quindi tornato in dicembre accompagnato dall’entusiasmo della prima volta di Fabio Giacomelli "Giac" e dalle timide esperienze patagoniche su montagne minori di Horacio Codò e Luca Fava; chalteniani d.o.c., perché da dove abitano, il Fitz Roy, la montagna simbolo, il gigante patagonico, il loro mito, "tiempo feo" permettendo ce l’hanno proprio stampato davanti come su un’eterna cartolina.
Durante la seconda metà di dicembre e per quasi tutto gennaio le condizioni ambientali e meteo non ci aiuteranno di certo a sperare granché, facendo presagire ad un altro disastroso sbaglio. Riusciamo comunque a salire in condizioni quasi invernali i primi seicento metri di parete con presenza di molta neve, fessure e diedri intasati di ghiaccio e placche rese ancora più difficili ed infide dal vetrato, scegliendo così, soprattutto per motivi di sicurezza, di attrezzare la via fino alla comoda cengia del "Bivachotel Patagonicus"; la quale comodità di bivacco risulterà poi fondamentale per superare l’impressionante susseguirsi di difficili placconate nella parte superiore della parete, senza mai scendere.
Verso i primi giorni di gennaio "Giac" termina le sue ferie e quindi se ne deve rientrare a malincuore in Italia mentre con Luca avrò modo, ancora per alcuni giorni, di tornare a ricucire patiently for some hope during the long waits in the "Cueva de hielo" to Paso Superior. Horacio and Luke for the first time on a large wall, and having little experience, at first did not trust either of them would have liked to confide at least try to get their hands on Chalten. Reading their immense desire in her eyes I came so naturally to encourage them to embark on their first great adventure.
None of us really believed in the success of the climb. We addressed from the outset with simplicity and essential respect, without a lot of wishful thinking and just have fun with the idea of \u200b\u200bclimbing as high as possible. No soul agonistico quindi, anche perché lassù non c’è proprio nulla da conquistare... niente eroismi e nessuna sfida, battaglia o guerra da intraprendere per alcunché con relative vittorie o sconfitte, e la totale assenza di "contratti", media, sponsor e condizionamenti commerciali. Solo un vero alpinismo di ricerca rivolto più al recupero del rapporto umano, senza fretta, record da battere o corse che lasciano indietro i compagni. Non ci siamo fatti "annunciare" da nessuno, però poi in silenzio, piano piano, le cose si sono succedute da sole e salendo abbiamo recuperato la fiducia, sbloccando di conseguenza anche il cervello.
Succede raramente che il vento si intenerisca, però even now I like to think that he has appreciated our genuine simplicity. All our movements were seeking a wish but it seemed too big to show it openly. He understood and delighted us with the right time, that blue dream that deepens the sky of Patagonia.
Our steps advancing in disbelief, almost on tiptoe not to disturb that too much silence, marking the time and days immersed in an incredible atmosphere.
If it is true that in every work of genius we find the thoughts that we discarded, going up those plaques rifuggenti that never end, we felt those thoughts now turn lost every day in a superb line of elegance.
As the tiny flea lost in that huge sea of \u200b\u200bgranite climbed throughout the day between the folds of the great mountain long imagined, then return at night to rest lying on the comfortable terrace in the middle of the wall-to-peak the void, on the short line was suspended almost 600 meters from the glacier, under a moon that was getting bigger.
And when the night now, closing the zipper tired of sleeping bag against our noses, eyes after he had impressed the colorful magic of twilight and the pyramid of Chalten casts its long shadow far extinct in the highlands of Patagonia we were really on him the rare privilege Ironically, while a myriad of thoughts were mingled among the thousands of lights suspended in the deep and dark starry sky.
the morning with swollen hands and fingers burned with granite, was always a thrill going up again from our camp along the first overhanging end, then, again, get used his fingertips to the rock, the vertical continues to surprise with particular and climbing into a dimension of continuous discovery. Just beside the shape characteristic of the pillar Casarotto served as our yardstick, and there seemed never to arrive at the top of the large dihedral it detached from the bulk of Chalten, making it almost a unit him.
Every corner, every corner, terrace, plate, dihedral, or stack slot, every fold, every inch of that big wall revealed a separate reality, a world unto itself, almost like the unreal images seen from below.
Then, like all stories that end well after six camps in the wall, one of which is frozen just below the "cumbre" and spent seven days in the dream, we were suddenly awakened by a whisker sky watching from across Patagonia, overlooking the charming new viewpoint of the infinite horizons Chalten. Only regret, however, is that rock that I hit the shooting hand in the morning be down to camp out again in mid-wall, and we climbed to retrieve the latest string that we were not able to remove the previous evening from the top down. It seemed all of a sudden that even the weather had turned.
Then, during the let down to the glacier blocked with his right hand, a strange worm gnawing at me a little 'inside to see the rock finally dry and clean from snow and ice after eight days of good weather. Throughout the climb we found conditions rather complicated, first for the presence of a lot of snow on the bottom and then, during the first four days of climbing along the upper wall, we found ourselves struggling with cracks and corners of ice clogged with fallen Cleaning of snow accumulated during the previous long period of bad weather.
Now, with the granite in the state and the knowledge of the steps, it would be fun, after a brief recovery, try to repeat the climb rock climbing ... but unfortunately that even small reserves of bad luck we wanted to once again put the paw repelling home with a souvenir not exactly welcome.
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